Profiles

Patty Unterman

Patty Unterman is a founding member of Seafood Choices Alliance. She opened the Hayes Street Grill in San Francisco 22 years ago, offering patrons of the nearby Opera House and civic center a place to eat before performances and a chance to sample quality, strictly fresh seafood. At the time, Patty was able to offer just four seafood dishes, the extent of the fish she could find available fresh. All that has changed, however, and she now has to sort through a wide variety of fish flown in from around the globe. Her menu now offers seafood from the Pacific, Atlantic, Gulf Coast and Hawaii.

What's the most popular seafood dish on your menu?
Local king salmon remains the most popular fish here. But Dungeness crabs during their season are very popular. It’s a very fun and exciting time, people come in just for it. And they tend to like a nice white, flaky fish, like Alaskan halibut. I think people are broadening their tastes. They travel more, eat all over the world, which is broadening.

What is your favorite seafood to eat?
I love skate, mackerel, I really love grilled sardines – that may be my favorite fish of all. I love shad roe. I also believe fish is such a delicacy, I like it naked – I just like the idea of tasting the fish.

How would you describe your philosophy on ocean conservation?
My philosophy is a new consciousness about it. I’m really thinking about where every single fish comes from. I’m asking my fish guy. And he goes back and asks his purveyor, so it kind of flows down the line. I hope it has an effect, because if I get the wrong answer, I won’t buy it. You know, 67 percent of seafood is sold in restaurants. So that could have a lot of effect.

How has your philosophy changed what you serve?
We’ve always been pretty conscious. But there are things we used to sell that were very popular that we don’t anymore. One of them was Patagonian toothfish, which is known as Chilean sea bass.

Have your diners noticed?
We have a daily menu and it’s pretty broad. I think people actually don’t miss it. They have been missing shrimp, though. They really miss it and haven’t been serving it because our North Carolina supplier hasn’t had much. It’s been too cold. And we won’t serve frozen.

Have your seafood purveyors worked with you on getting sustainably caught seafood?
I go through the daily inventory with my fish man, Paul Johnson, [link to profile] and weigh the environmental consequences of flying fish in and other criteria. Not only has he been very cooperative, I’d say he’s a leader in the industry. But he’s got questions about the criteria for sustainability, like swordfish. He’s concerned about the livelihood of the fishermen.

Why do you support Seafood Choices Alliance?
I love fish and I’m really worried about being able to eat it for the rest of my life and my kid’s life, and I think it’s a real issue. It’s so miraculous to be able to catch wild fish. I’m really concerned about the future.

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